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As I wake up, I immediately notice someone is looking at me. Not just looking. Staring. But I won’t back down. He keeps looking at me as he enters the gas station. I unlock the car and walk in giving him a big warm “hello”. He doesn’t reply. I insist and ask “how are you?”, but all I get as an answer is an indiscernible “ok”. Never mind, I do what I have to do and as I’m about to walk out, he stops me saying “You can’t park here all night you know. Didn’t you see the sign?”. And if you just read that in a normal tone, read back adding heaps of anger and indignation. I explain that it was pitch dark and pouring rain when I arrived and apologize for not seeing the sign, and I even ask if I didn’t cause any problem (fully knowing that I didn’t). He replies that he almost called 911, but it was too late. I’m not sure what he meant by “too late”. Too late in the night for calling the cops, or too late because when he saw me I was getting out of the car? I’ll never know. I just left.

That was how my day started. But that’s not all coming back to Vancouver would bring. As I’m entering Vancouver, changing lane to go West Vancouver instead of Vancouver West (go and figure), I’ll get a nice finger from the car behind me. Yes, I did indicate and no, I didn’t drive like a French man. I guess it’s the just way it is. Big town = big stress.

And last but not least, only a few minutes after I gave the car back and started to cross the street (yes, both when and where I’m supposed to) I was centimeters from being hit by a van. The funny thing is, he was not even sorry, not at all, it was more like I was in his way and should feel bad about it. It didn’t matter that my light was green and that I was on a passenger crossing (or whatever it’s called).

Can’t wait to be out of town.

The road from 100 Mile House to Hope is really nice. It goes along the Fraser River, through the Fraser Canyon. I spotted the train slightly ahead of me and decided to speed up a bit to catch up with it and overtake it to have enough time to stop and take a photo of it. But I forgot that my camera had nor battery nor memory card, both still being in my bag since my previous stop. Still, I rushed and managed to quickly snap a few shots. The length of the train is just amazing, hundreds of wagons, really really long.

I made it in Hope in good time. I thought I might push it to Mission but actually I that’s already part of Vancouver, so I’m going to stay away from the big town for another last night.

The next update will probably be from Vancouver.

Yesterday, after dropping the hitchhiker downtown Prince George, I drove South for another hour before stopping. It was getting really foggy and dark so there wasn’t much to see.

The car was all frosty when I woke up but the night was warmer than any other. I’m peeling my layers as I get closer to Vancouver.

The morning was simply a photo treat. Low warm light, fog, it snowed during the night but there were a few patches of blue sky, just perfect.

I’m not sure if it’s easy to see on this photo, but most of the trees burnt, ashes leaving the face of the mountain all gray.

Today’s stop is by 100 Mile House, a little town along the highway. I stopped there for no other reason than its name. And again I managed to find a nice place full of locals, free wireless internet, and most importantly: a great pecan pie. It’s called the Chartreuse Moose.

I’m then going to continue getting closer to Vancouver, as tomorrow I’ll have to give the car back. I think I’ll spend the night near Hope, not too far from Vancouver to be able to get there quickly tomorrow morning, but far enough to feel that I’m not there just yet. There’s definitely some melancholy in the air, but a possible trip to Whitehorse keeps me smiling :)

I was originally told to check out Terrace, rather than Smithers. But I ended up there for two reasons. First, time. I just didn’t have the time to go to Terrace. Secondly, while talking to someone about my trip and the places I wanted to see, I mentioned Terrace. Her eyes grew bigger and she told me about Smithers, insisting that it was an even nicer place than Terrace.

I didn’t see much of it but have no regrets. I asked about a place where I could sit down and drink something while plugging my laptop and access internet, and all replied “Mountain Eagle” book shop. It’s a great place to meet locals, and if you’re into books, it’s paradise.  I ended up spending most of the day there and had just enough time to check out Old Hazelton. Strangely, after talking all morning, my head was full of thoughts and I didn’t feel much like taking photos, but I do recommend checking it out.

PS: I was just checking out Smithers on the wikipedia and the movie Eight Below was filmed there.

I then assisted to the most beautiful sunset ever. Again, no photos, but for a different reason this time, I took a hitchhiker with me all the way to Prince George. It was interesting to talk with someone local but he quickly fell asleep only to wake up a few kilometers before we arrived.

(road to Lake Jasper)

After a quick break in Jasper to have breakfast, I drove to Lake Jasper (on the Road to Edmonton).

(wildlife by Lake Jasper)

I was told I would see wildlife in Jasper, I sure did.

(wildlife by Lake Jasper)

I didn’t hike anywhere, the road just follows the Lake. Back to Jasper and direction Prince George.

(lunch break on the way to Prince George)

I’ll arrive in Prince George in the evening and will continue to Smithers where I’ll spend the warmest night so far. Temperatures are way warmer here.

I now understand what explorer Mary Schäffer meant when she wrote “There burst upon us… the finest view any of us had ever beheld in the Rockies”. I suppose it would look even better in summer time, but still, even being all white, this place is just amazing. So quiet, peaceful.

(road to Lake Maligne)

(Maligne river)

Now off to check out Lake Jasper.

(road to Jasper)

This road has the most amazing views I have ever seen. If there is one road that will let you in awe, it’s this one.

I finally arrive in Jasper, and I’m glad I asked Brett about its size because I would have been surprised. It’s a village, or a town if you want, but it’s small, way smaller than Banff. I’m not sure why I expected it to be much bigger.

(road from Lake Louise to Jasper)

(arriving in Jasper)

Stop number, gaz, and another $85 out. I arrived in Jasper with only a few spare litters. Then food, and finally I enquire about internet. I check google maps to find out where I could spend the night, and maybe with a bit of luck see the rest of the sunset and the sunrise tomorrow morning. My pick will be Pyramid Lake. It should be quiet there, it’s at the end of a road (at least at the end of the part of the road which isn’t under few feet of snow). I’ll have my dinner there, with a nice with on the lake, and plan the rest of the trip.

I’m not sure if this will work, but here is the plan. First, Lake Maligne, then, Lake Jasper. After that I’ll go by Jasper to update the blog and drive as much as I can before the night towards Prince George. Maybe even pass Prince George and start making my way to Smithers and Terrace which are the two last places I want to see before going back to Vancouver.

(planning the rest of the trip)

Before heading to the lake, I need to check my emails to find out about the trails I’ve been advised to take (since I stupidly didn’t write it down). I can’t find an open network nor a place with free wifi and end up at the Post Office (called the Depot, which is also a bank amongst other things, Lake Louise being a small village). No free wifi but I don’t want to pay just to check this one email I need, so I explain the situation to the man in charge. He will first try to convince me to take his advice about the trail, but as I insist he will let me check my emails for free.

Another stop by the public toilets to refill my water bottles and direction the lake. I arrive before the crowd, there is almost no car on the parking. Time to hike.

(arriving at the Tea House in Lake Louise)

The first person I’ll meet on the trails will be Brett, with whom I’ll spend a few hours, first going to the small Beehive, then to the Tea house by Lake Agnes, and following his advice I will go and check out the waterfall located on the right side of the Lake.

(waterfall by Lake Louise)

Now direction Jasper.

(The Summit Cafe and Three Sisters in the background, as I wake up)

Destiny wanted me to try the Magic bar from “The Summit Cafe”. It’s located 1001 Cougar Street, at the corner of Benchlands, and it’s already opened when I wake up (before 7am). I can’t remember exactly what it is made of, but there is some chocolate chunks, some condensed milk and some nuts. Boy what it good!

I’m driving around Canmore trying to get a nice view of the sun rising on the pink mountains but I’ll giving up and head to Lake Louise. But this time, instead of taking the highway, I managed to find a small road that goes all the way to Lake Louise, by the Bow Vallery. Road 1a. 48km through the forest with less traffic and better views.

(Three Sisters, taken from the car on the way to Calgary)

21h30 is time for goodbyes. I leave Adrian at Calgary International Airport from where he will fly back to Vancouver and the next day to Europe. The car is suddenly very empty and I almost miss Adrian’s mess. But the journey continues, back to the Rockies.

(arriving in Calgary)

After driving for a while in the Three Sisters village (thinking that it would be up in the mountains, near the Three Sisters rocks) I end up spending the night in Canmore. Believe it or not, I will park in front of a bakery as I am already thinking about tomorrow’s breakfast.